This will give you a central lock switch without loosing any of the alarm or lock/unlock functionality of the factory version. This is for NA cars, and was done on a 95 VW Golf Sport. This was taken from, http://www.gti-vr6.net/library....html but that’s sort of a mess to walk through..

Time 2 Hours if you take your time, 20 min if you hustle.

Needed:
This DIY
OEM Central Lock Switch - 1HM 962125 C or A (older), Ebay, Dealer, Yard whatever.
Wire/Solder/Basic Tools/Electrical Tape/Heat Shrink Tubing/Crimping Tool/Wire Cutters/Strippers
220 Ohm Resistor (Radio Shack) - http://www.radioshack.com/prod...D1111

6 Position Interlocking Female Connector (Radio Shack) PN 274-236 - http://www.radioshack.com/prod...2D236

Cheap, don’t want to pay for a switch? You can use this deal as well, it just won’t light up. Get a Toggle Switch SPDT with Center Off Position and wire that up! (lock wire center, 12V top, ground bottom).

- Locate Lock Wire - Down near driver’s foot well, near hood release.

It’s the black/red wire 2nd one up on the door jamb connector. (Shown)

Remove the 2 screws that hold up the fuse cover/dash cover from the bottom.

Remove the cover. There is a white clip at the back, the panel slides in and out of this clip.

- CUT this wire as CLOSE to the connector as possible, don’t worry you WILL NOT REATTACH THIS WIRE TO ANYTHING ON THE CONNECTER SIDE OF THE HARNESS! HAVE FAITH BROTHER!

- Pop/Pry off the A/C heater panel. (Plastic knife works nice for this.) Remove Ashtray. Remove 4 screws at upper end of panel, remove 2 screws under ashtray. Leave the heater A/C controls in the dash - they will not need to come out, however, remove the trim and lower the switch panel out to the shifter.

- Strip ¼” wire off of black/red wire; strip off ¼” off new wire that will be run to center console. SOLDER and heat shrink wires together. Secure new wire up over fuse box, under steering column and into center console area. Pull about 1’ of wire out of the center console.

At this point, your sort of done, If you touch ground with the wire, the pump will run and the doors will unlock, if you touch 12V+ the doors will lock (or vice versa, can’t remember off hand). I added and soldered the 220 Ohm resistor to the wire. My system worked without this, but the Bentley manual shows it. Whatever. This seems to be a bone of contention with most people who do this. They get all whipped up. I say try it both ways. If it works with the resistor, leave it, if it does not - take it out. Try about 10 cycles in each direction.

- Break out that fresh nylon connector and hook it up like this. I used OEM wire color (sort of, well what I had on hand).

Make sure you crimp the wires well; the pins (female) should slide into the nylon connector. I added solder to the pins, and had to cut (snip) off the connector “wings” of the nylon connector. Don’t worry its going to be a snug fit. You’re gonna have to push a little to get it to fit well.

Push out one of the blanks from the dash switch cluster.

Feed the nylon unit into the cluster and plug it into the back of the switch. (again, some force is needed here, but please don’t break the switch).

Next, cut solder and splice the 12+v into the red/white wire of the Cigar lighter. You can tie the two grounds together and splice them into any ground on the harness. ( Note some people see the “brown” as “orange” on VWs…) I did this on the rear defroster ground, and I also used the same connector to tie into the blue/green wire for the dimmer circuit. Again, solder everything, the little “3M scotch lock” connectors are too big for some of these wires, and they will loosen up and fail..

Once you are all ready, give the switch a cycle, and see how it works! Also make sure the switch lights up with the dash lights.

Put everything back together and enjoy!

-Dan

Modified by Dan J Reed at 12:56 AM 8-23-2005

95' Golf Sport "Schneesturm", 87' Westy Vanagon "Schultz" - 98' Jetta GLS "Wife's Car"
BUY MY $60 14" (4) WINTER BEATER TIRES! - BUY MY OEM MUD FLAPS! - CHEAP OEM MKIII REMOTES!

'95 Golf GL
chipped, dipped and (eventually) whipped

Do you want a sub enclosure?
Send me an IM. I can make whatever you need

"Fat Rabbits"
Member#6
"once you have fat, you never go back"

Make sure you get a 220 Ohm resistor, not a 220K ohm unit, they are not the same at all!!! It won't wotk at all with the 220K ohm unit, just lookout for it if you are shopping in the stores..!

95' Golf Sport "Schneesturm", 87' Westy Vanagon "Schultz" - 98' Jetta GLS "Wife's Car"
BUY MY $60 14" (4) WINTER BEATER TIRES! - BUY MY OEM MUD FLAPS! - CHEAP OEM MKIII REMOTES!

-Phil

Phil | GTiKid at gmail.com

VW Fixx | SoCalEuro | Petey's Polishing

Mulberry

Buy my Seats!

MK4/Audi switchblade keys

FS: Kahn RS-S 4x100

AIM-grey55342
Myspace

My car

Phil | GTiKid at gmail.com

VW Fixx | SoCalEuro | Petey's Polishing

let me know how it goes. i bought my switch awhile back and still havent done it.

95 Golf | 92 Jetta
---------------------------------

IMO: If I were doing this, instead of hassling with the radio shack harness you can get either a harness and wires from VW or you can get a driver side harness off the windows switchs. I took one off my old door to my jetta GLS that i had sitting around. 6 pin, 3 on top 3 on bottom, clips right in. I had a spare wire hanging around to clip in because only 5 of the pins were occupied and my spade release was not working. The soldering was done in 20 minutes rather than all the grinding and such that the radio shack harness would have taken.

When Dan means a dot of solder, he means it. Main reason I went hunting for a new harness, I soldered the connector to the wire and heat shrinked it. No good.

Here are some pictures

Got me thinking...

Soldering bib

Thats the end of those connectors

Clean

That's what I like to see

Phil | GTiKid at gmail.com

VW Fixx | SoCalEuro | Petey's Polishing

Let's go one step further and give Dan a real challenge
Hook up the switch (or maybe just the locking circuit) to a speed sensor so the doors lock automatically when the car goes faster than 10mph, just like my girlfriends 2002 Passat 1.8t. Of course with that, you don't have to unlock the front doors to get out, unlike my Jetta.

Toby Erkson
'95 Jetta 2.0L, CHE w/LSD, 270º, K&N, MagnaFlow, TT-Chip, SCCA Solo II EP #3__'72 VW Squareback, custom__'81 Gold Wing 1100__'73 Porsche 914 2.0L

Quote, originally posted by Air_Cooled_Nut »

Another good DIY from Dan Let's go one step further and give Dan a real challenge Hook up the switch (or maybe just the locking circuit) to a speed sensor so the doors lock automatically when the car goes faster than 10mph, just like my girlfriends 2002 Passat 1.8t. Of course with that, you don't have to unlock the front doors to get out, unlike my Jetta.

Haha.. that's easy.

I've been thinking about this one...

http://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#al

ThatGuy - Glad it worked out for ya, I didin't have access (easy) to the spare harness and connector - that's why I went the radio shack connector route. Ps - funny to see my own work printed out and being used..

95' Golf Sport "Schneesturm", 87' Westy Vanagon "Schultz" - 98' Jetta GLS "Wife's Car"
BUY MY $60 14" (4) WINTER BEATER TIRES! - BUY MY OEM MUD FLAPS! - CHEAP OEM MKIII REMOTES!

autocratica

1 thirty pack at a time

As for the speed sensor I thought about that after I was driving it around, hey that would be cool. Not that I know how to do it...

Phil | GTiKid at gmail.com

VW Fixx | SoCalEuro | Petey's Polishing

Px3

Eatin the chedda biscuits

Phil | GTiKid at gmail.com

VW Fixx | SoCalEuro | Petey's Polishing

Toby Erkson
'95 Jetta 2.0L, CHE w/LSD, 270º, K&N, MagnaFlow, TT-Chip, SCCA Solo II EP #3__'72 VW Squareback, custom__'81 Gold Wing 1100__'73 Porsche 914 2.0L

I tried calling the dealership and they said they couldn't get me an oem connector without a part number. That all the connectors were generalized in their system and they couldn't order it without the part number. Friggin jackoffs. Could someone please get me a part number of a connector/harness that would work for this central locking switch? Or the driver's side power window harness? I'm hoping it's just a problem with the connector and nothing else because there really isn't anything else I could have screwed up.

One more thing also, what does the amount of solder used have to do with it? Because I used a lot. Maybe that had something to do with it? I dunno but this has made me very cranky. I've been trying to figure this thing out all afternoon. Help is appreciated.

Modified by MerryBerry at 4:42 PM 1-20-2006

Mulberry

Buy my Seats!

Mulberry

Buy my Seats!

The ammount of solder directly correlates to not fitting in the "block" IE you are supposed to crimp and push them in, if there is extra solder on the outisde the normal circle, it will be a PITA to put in.

O is supposed to fit in O
O) with a bit of solder on the side will not fit in O

At 2 dealership the connector was special order. If you want a part number, go pull out your driver side front window button and read the part number off it, its the same switch, also you will need the "female" connectors for this, 3 of them, they come in pairs of 2. If you have alot of time i can special order the crap and wire you one, but i doubt you wanna wait.

The easy part of snagging one out of a GTi is that you dont have to mess with it too much, sockets are already in and you just have to strip, solder, and heatshrink.

IIRC I also bought the A

Modified by ThatGuy at 4:13 PM 1-20-2006

Phil | GTiKid at gmail.com

VW Fixx | SoCalEuro | Petey's Polishing

Mulberry

Buy my Seats!

I tried to use the spade tool but it didnt work, so i just cut it. I understand what it does Dan, just you know...

As far as what wire you used. There are 2 with black/red, you need to make sure it is the correct one, 2nd from the bottom IIRC, Dan said it from on the original post. I would think this would be the trigger on cars without power door locks to lock all the doors.

I don't exactly know what it does pertaining to if its not cut. Mine worked perfect with the exception of the driver door not locking(because it was open). Upon shutting the door and locking the car, they all locked, unlocked. The whole shabang.

Modified by ThatGuy at 4:22 PM 1-20-2006

Phil | GTiKid at gmail.com

VW Fixx | SoCalEuro | Petey's Polishing

Mulberry

Buy my Seats!

Quote, originally posted by MerryBerry »

Yes, second from the bottom. I went and bought another connector from RadioShack so i'm just going to start from scratch again. See you in a few hours.

Ur a glutten for punishment, instead of that, why not go steal, and by steal i mean find someone local with a totaled gti/jetta/etc... and get it from them. 20 minutes vs a possible hour

Phil | GTiKid at gmail.com

VW Fixx | SoCalEuro | Petey's Polishing

Hey, I got manual windows too. You NEEEEEEEEeeeeeddd to CUT the wire. TRUST me, I thought the same thing!!!!

95' Golf Sport "Schneesturm", 87' Westy Vanagon "Schultz" - 98' Jetta GLS "Wife's Car"
BUY MY $60 14" (4) WINTER BEATER TIRES! - BUY MY OEM MUD FLAPS! - CHEAP OEM MKIII REMOTES!

Quote, originally posted by MerryBerry »

Yes, second from the bottom. I went and bought another connector from RadioShack so i'm just going to start from scratch again. See you in a few hours.

Yea, the soldering of the pins is a pain... but you can do it. Just go easy with the solder. I used a small pair of needle nose to jamb the wires into the nylon block.

95' Golf Sport "Schneesturm", 87' Westy Vanagon "Schultz" - 98' Jetta GLS "Wife's Car"
BUY MY $60 14" (4) WINTER BEATER TIRES! - BUY MY OEM MUD FLAPS! - CHEAP OEM MKIII REMOTES!

pm for prices
Interior LED swap Interior LED swap
Lockfest 8/8/06

Danbury CT GTG
dOLfiN_sTyLeZz

Phil | GTiKid at gmail.com

VW Fixx | SoCalEuro | Petey's Polishing

pm for prices
Interior LED swap Interior LED swap
Lockfest 8/8/06

Danbury CT GTG
dOLfiN_sTyLeZz

It *does* do something.

When you move your driver's door lock pin up and down, all the doors lock and unlock.. right?

When you cut the wire, and rewire it to the switch, you more or less move that lock button function - to the center console.

In other words, your driver's door lock no longer controls the other door locks, its now run by the cental switch. HOWEVER the "key" tumbler on the outside is ANOTHER wire, and that function STILL works.

By NOT cutting the wire, you send a 12v -/+ back into the same ckt, and cause a small short in the system.

The only thing this version does versus the factoy center lock button is allow to lock, lock, lock - the system. Its always a lock/unlock/lock/unlock cycle - just like the door pin.

Trust me, cut the wire, and then touch the "new" wire right to ground, and then power and then ground - its gonna lock/unlock/lock - (or do at least two of them.. depending on where the setup was last left off..)

Modified by Dan J Reed at 1:00 AM 1-21-2006

95' Golf Sport "Schneesturm", 87' Westy Vanagon "Schultz" - 98' Jetta GLS "Wife's Car"
BUY MY $60 14" (4) WINTER BEATER TIRES! - BUY MY OEM MUD FLAPS! - CHEAP OEM MKIII REMOTES!

pm for prices
Interior LED swap Interior LED swap
Lockfest 8/8/06

Danbury CT GTG
dOLfiN_sTyLeZz

you have a cabby emergency flasher writeup?

Phil | GTiKid at gmail.com

VW Fixx | SoCalEuro | Petey's Polishing

95' Golf Sport "Schneesturm", 87' Westy Vanagon "Schultz" - 98' Jetta GLS "Wife's Car"
BUY MY $60 14" (4) WINTER BEATER TIRES! - BUY MY OEM MUD FLAPS! - CHEAP OEM MKIII REMOTES!

soon to be underway, "operation dumb-funky-fast"

oh and, where's punjeb?

Instead of cutting the wire, how about inserting a diode? Wouldn't that allow the door pin locking feature to work AS WELL AS the added console switch?

Toby Erkson
'95 Jetta 2.0L, CHE w/LSD, 270º, K&N, MagnaFlow, TT-Chip, SCCA Solo II EP #3__'72 VW Squareback, custom__'81 Gold Wing 1100__'73 Porsche 914 2.0L